terça-feira, 29 de janeiro de 2008

Treino de Finger Board para Escalada Esportiva

O fisioterapeuta e treinador de escalada Pablo Scorza dá dicas e conselhos de como treinar com o Finger Board, um conjunto de agarras artificiais para melhorar a pegada e resistência. Veja também uma tabela detalhando o treino para iniciantes e intermediários.



Dar dicas de treinamento sem uma avaliação prévia é um pouco difícil, pois cada pessoa tem determinadas características que devem ser enfatizadas, principalmente no aspecto preventivo. O Finger Board, porém, é um recurso muito utilizado para ganhar força e resistência nos dedos e mãos. Todos os escaladores que buscam desempenho utilizam esse recurso, não só o Dani Andrada como os melhores escaladores do mundo e do BrasilUma dica muito importante para prevenir lesões é a utilização de elásticos para a compensação muscular. Logo depois dos treinos devem ser feitas as contrações dos músculos extensores dos dedos – abrir a mão esticando os dedos contra uma resistência elástica.

Dê preferência para as pegas abertas e abauladas, evitando os regletes. Trabalhar diferentes ângulos de isometria como flexão máxima dos cotovelos, 90 graus e 180 graus dos cotovelos e extensão máxima. O tempo de isometria normalmente varia de 5 seg a 1 5seg.

O treino no Finger Board pode ser feito ao final da escalada ou num dia especifico pra isso, numa freqüência de uma a três vezes por semana. A periodização do treinamento é muito importante, por isso o Finger deve entrar na fase de ganho da força ou resistência de forca dos dedos e das mãos. Nunca utilizar esse recurso na fase de treino de base (início dos treinamentos).

De maneira geral os treinos nos Fingers devem durar de 10 min até 30 min. Quando o objetivo está mais no ganho de força, o tempo de descanso deve ser maior entre as séries e as pegas devem ser menores. Quando o objetivo está na resistência de força, o tempo de descanso deve ser menor entre as séries e as pegas um pouco maiores.

Treino para iniciantes e intermediários

Comece e termine a tarefa ou tarefas dentro dos intervalos de um minuto. Use o tempo restante para descansar. Pendure um relógio por baixo da placa ou tenha um relógio de parede de forma a que você possa vê-lo enquanto treina.

Nível Iniciante:

Nível Intermediário:



Pablo Scorza é o criador da marca e da filosofia da Biomecânica Funcional e professor responsável dos cursos de formação desse trabalho, que aborda o treinamento preventivo e a evolução postural. É fisioterapeuta, especialista em terapias manuais e posturais. Trabalha com escalada desde 2000 e quando começou a acompanhar o treinamento do escalador César Augusto Grosso (Césinha) que também é patrocinado pela Biomecânica Funcional. É professor de diferentes universidades para cursos de especialização em ortopedia e coluna. Mais informações no site da Biomecânica Funcional

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